June
Well Done Claude!
Monday 1st…Scott left by seven o’clock this morning with the Hiscocks. The weather’s been clear, sunny but cold all day. Nothing of importance has happened. It was “Black Monday” with regards to School. After supper I collected a partridge berry plant for my classroom. I plan to have some plants at the window which should look nice. I’ve been reading this evening as usual. I popped over to Bart’s for some soft drink and I’m just off to bed now. Oh, Claude’s working for Edgar now. He plans to get a motor boat to visit the settlements in Southern Labrador during the summer. To show his face and to find out problems. Well done Claude!
Tidying Up
2nd…Nothing much of note has happened all day in School today. Making full use of the Flannel Board the day passed smoothly by with the children cleaning – up the School surrounds which is absolutely covered with broken bottles, tin cans, paper etc. Before Recess this morning Pete turned up. He came in to collect stovepipes for his school. That’s why he hasn’t held any school to date apparently. He’s been given two sealskins. When I finished School today I went up to a boggy area just above the house and put some of the natural flora of this area in plastic pots (beheaded “Javex” bottles). By the time I’d finished that it was supper time of seal and potatoes. At supper Rita told me that Stephen wanted to see me at the School at 8.30 p.m. (I had volunteered to help him get his wood sawn up because Rube is away.) After cleaving wood and demolishing Uncle Jack’s old house with Claude I went down to Edgar’s to get a new axe handle.
A Gift: The First Salmon of the Year
I was returning from the storage place by Edgar’s pier when Ron Notley “sang out” for me to come down. I thought he was only joking but the kind fellah gave me the first salmon caught here this year. It was a “slink” or young salmon. It was 24 “long and weighed at a guess, seven pounds. I took it back to the house where Rita cleaned it, cut it in half and I took the tail piece down to the Pentecost School. Stephen and Ed were there chatting.
Sawing Up Sticks and Cleaving Junks
I went in, gave Stephen the salmon piece and after chatting a while went to Eldrid’s to collect the “Homelite” power saw that Stephen had been loaned. Armed with that and a tin of gasoline, Stephen and I went to Rube’s (opposite Stephen’s house and at the other end of the settlement from Eldrid’s.) Eldrid and Becky gave us a lift in their car after El had pumped up the front tyre. Well for the first time I’ve used a power saw, sawing up all the wood whilst Stephen did the “feeding” on the wood – horse. My left arm was aching by the time we’d finished. We walked back to El’s, returned the saw and I came home. Stephen went home armed with goods from Sam’s store. I’ve just had lunch and I’m off to bed.
New Telephone System by June 15th?
El said that the new telephone system that “Bell Telephone” is installing here should be ready by June 15th. That will mean no more “over and out.” Ed has moved in with Edgar because the family with whom he was staying (Kippenhuck and Co.) has moved out.
Brave Little David!
3rd…it’s been raining all day and the temperature has only been a few degrees above freezing except for this evening when it became warmer. School went smoothly today. David was back after his badly cut finger. He is a brave little lad.
Before supper of boiled beans and pork fat I tidied up my room and collected a pile of stuff ready to send off. I heard that the boat will be here tomorrow. After supper I cleaved some wood and then went to Rube’s where I cleaved the pile of wood I cut with Stephen last night. It was an hour and a half’s work.
“Wonderful easy” cleaving the wood because its grain was straight. After lunching at the Cook’s I came home. Rita’s just making a raggedy – mat in the room next to mine. Oh, Rita, Kimberely and I thoroughly enjoyed the salmon for dinner today. It was great.
Freezing Weather Again
4th…We’re back in winter again! This morning it snowed lightly and with my furnace trying to burn water mixed with oil it was cold in class. Jimmy Sampson managed to empty water into the oil casks. Over at School Claude has four pupils and I have: Grade 6 – Pauline Penney, Hedley Sampson; Grade 5 -Austin Penney, Lemuel Penney and James Butt; Grade 4 – Ronald Penney, Terry Penney, Sharon Penney and Josie Paul; Grade 3 – Patsie Paul, Lester Penney; Grade 2 – Madeline Butt; Grade 1 – Brain Penney, Dale Penney, David Paul, Colin Butt and Victor Sampson; Kindergarten – Pierce Penney, Alvin Paul and Susan Butt. The Butts will be moving out soon which will leave me with 16 children to finish my year’s teaching experience.
Claude’s New Motorboat
After School, Claude and I went over to have a look at the motorboat that Claude’s purchased from Wince for $25. We’ll paint it tomorrow after School I expect. When I returned home I finished packing two parcels for home, lugged them down to the Post Office and had to pay $9.60 to post them at a weight of 28lbs. Vic and Aunt Sue were just going out to William’s Harbour. Sam has already gone. Claude’s going out as soon as School is over to visit the settlements along the Southern Labrador coast to spread his name amongst the people. I might go out to George’s Cove with him before I leave here to get to Main Brook. After supper I went up towards the Back Road and collected some turpentine from the trees. I’ve just burnt some and Wow! I’m pretty sure I could light a tree that has pockets of turps in its bark. I cleaved wood for the rest of the evening and went over to Barts for some soft drink and candy. I then came home, ate it, then had a lunch and I’m off to bed with the end of another week “staring me in the face.” Looking back “my time” (sorry because that sounds too much like a prisoner speaking) has gone very quickly but I can remember looking forward at the year ahead and thinking what a long time it would be. It’s not that bad here; just under – developed that’s all.
Friday 5th…Whoopee! That’s an end of another week out here. This morning I was down at School before Claude as usual, every day. Nothing much of note happened in School except that after Recess I took my kids outside to do their reading because it’s been one of the finest days so far since I’ve been here. It’s been warm, sunny with a clear blue sky all day. At 4.00 p.m. Stephen came in to have a look at our duplicator. After going home to change into my jeans and shirt I went over and helped Claude paint his boat white. We did a bit after supper as well. After that I went for a ramble towards the Back Road and collected raw turpentine as I went along. I also cleaved up some wood. It’s now dark at 10.25 p.m. and its bedtime.
A List of Foods Eaten!
6th…Below is a List of all the Foods that I can remember having eaten out here beginning with the different Meats : Bologna, Seal and Seal Flipper, Beaver, Porcupine, Salt Beef, Salt Pork, Luncheon Meat, Meat in Tinned Stews, Fatty Bacon, Eider Duck, Trout, Salmon and salted Cod fish; Vegetables : potatoes, haricot Beans, Peas, Turnip, Cabbage (sometimes), Turnip Tops (canned); Other Foods: home – made bread, home baked beans (in molasses), “Purity” biscuits, boxed sweet biscuits, home made “lassy” (molasses), cake, rice krispie crunchies, cheese (sometimes), candies, soft drink, apples (they go from The Store very quickly), grapes, oranges, bake apples, partridge berries.
Keeping Busy
This morning I was up at School time, had breakfast and busied myself making construction toys for my Kindergarten trio. After doing most of that over at the School I returned to the house and then went out again collecting bladders of turpentine. As I was doing that Claude came up to me and in a peremptory tone said was I coming to help him with his boat. I did. After dinner I made some more holy “Javex” bottles and then went with Ed for a game of “kick – ball.” We played with John Burden and John Rowe, Gerald and Lloyd Penney. We won. That lasted until suppertime.
Swimming, Sprained Ankle and Mosquitoes at a “Civilization in the Wilderness”
The weather has been glorious all day today and my only complaints are that the pond up by the Back Road where I tried to go swimming before dinner was too muddy and that I’ve sprained my ankle. Nothing to worry about. Coastal boats are ice – bound although one is expected soon.
7th…When I awoke this morning my ankle was “hurting some bad” when I put any weight on it. I’ve had it strapped up all day which enables me to walk on it. It was pleasantly warm in the morning and I took my green jumper, sunglasses and “The Swiss Family Robinson” up to the Firebreak (Back Road). It is like a road in that it’s a cleared area. I cut some branches from a couple of small firs and with a few handfuls of grass made what I thought would be a comfortable place for a read. Except for the blasted mosquitoes. I returned to the house pretty smartly and did my reading there. I have been out for the rest of the day mainly to give my foot a rest. The “S.S. Nonia” came in before supper with mail I hope. It’s raining very heavily as I write this on my bed. I feel the weather is warm now after the Winter out here that won’t be forgotten in a hurry. “Very invigorating I feel aptly describes what it’s been like out here. Life out here Ed Osmond said is,“Civilization in the Wilderness.”
Well, I suppose it’s a type of civilization.
Plenty of Mail
Monday 8th…The “Nonia” and “Springdale” are in today. I had plenty of mail. A great feeling. School went as normal. I took the kids with Ed’s class past Blackwater Brook for football. After School I collected my mail and read it. I had a lovely supper of bacon and beans. Scott and Albert were in. Then I went to Stephen and Sandra’s after giving Albert Russell his map of Canada. I made sure that Rube will get his via his brother Gil. The weather’s been hot all day. I’m getting more news about England (World Cup etc.) as I frequent Stephen and Sandra’s. I took them some apples from Edgar’s last night.
9th…I was up slightly earlier than usual to give Mrs. Shirley Burden a letter because she was off on the plane that came today. Actually two planes came but more about that later. Nothing especially important happened all morning. Things went just as usual. After dinner the “U. K.K.” plane and the Government plane came. The Government plane landed as Claude and I finished for the afternoon. I’d decided to paint the School sign so I went off to get changed and buy some paint.
A Surprise Flying Visit from the School Board Who should have come in on the plane but none other than Bill Rompkey with three other members of my School Board. (Bill Rompkey is the V. S. O. Overseas Arm out here.) Doug and Claude went out in Edgar’s speedboat to bring them in whilst I got changed.
Sign Painting
When Doug came back I bought two tins of paint, ivory and black. I then went over to the School and painted all round the letters in ivory. I gave it a coat of paint some time ago. After I finished going round all the Gothic style letters I popped up to Jim Rumbolt’s and collected a two inch brush.
Complaining to the School Board
As I was returning I met Bill Rompkey and Co. coming out of the School after Claude had been telling them all about the problems here: poor attendance being the first, lack of School supplies, School building and equipment in a poor state of repair, ignorance of the parents etc.
The Value of Saying “Thank You”
Mr. Rompkey asked me if I was fixed up to go back. I told him of my plans about getting to Main Brook. As the plane was going out very shortly, this was all before supper; he asked me how I had enjoyed the year. I said,
“It’s been hard at times but I’ve enjoyed it. This is a wonderful country.”
Then he said,
“Thank you for coming out.”
That “thank you” was actually meant in a more general sort of way. It was greatly appreciated and those two words, coming from him, have made the whole year very worthwhile to me. He also asked me what I was planning to do next year. So I told him,
“College.”
After shaking hands with Mr. Rompkey and saying goodbye I carried on with my sign – painting up to supper time. I returned for supper. Then collected a smaller brush from Doug and finished the job. I had to make some small brushes for the awkward bits of the lettering. The whole sign shows up how badly the School needs painting. It’s been four years without a fresh coat of paint according to Claude. The Board Members went on to Mary’s Harbour and Claude phoned Rev Ed to let him know they were coming. It only takes 10 minutes to get to Mary’s Harbour from here by light aircraft. Nothing else has happened today. My right ankle is getting better.
Light that is Unfit for a Mole to Work By
The sty on my lower left eyelid has almost disappeared but now I’m getting another one on my right eyelid. My eyes also pain me. It’s the poor light in the house that causes it I am sure. That damned oil lamp in my room isn’t fit for a mole to work by! Darkness has just fallen at 11.00 p. m. so I’m off to bed. I forgot to mention I have some fabulous air photos of this area on the last boat.
10th…The weather has been nice all day. School went O.K. I took some mail down to Eldrid’s and heard Becky pour out her sorrows and disgust at that “poor boy Claude” (Tony Williamson). I also heard that two years ago Claude applied to Gerry Hill for a job!
Claude’s Meeting
Claude’s having a meeting tonight about the Telephone Service and anything else he can find to grumble about. Like Becky said,
“He’s emotional.”
Becky gave me some trout for myself and for Sandra Cook. I took theirs up after supper. I’ve been at Stephen and Sandra’s all evening and I’m off to bed now. The poor light is harming my eyes.
Seeing is Believing!
Thursday 11th…I was down to School by 9.05 a.m. to prepare things ready for the day ahead and to prepare three Monthly Reports on unexcused absences that I am supposed to send in by Law for cases of five or more unexcused absences. I got Claude to sign. This morning went as usual with Maths. Geography and Reading. The furnace in my classroom wasn’t working which meant that I didn’t have any afternoon School. I sorted out books with Claude who was neglecting his three students as usual. He’s more interested in politics than in the School. That’s just about all he ever talks about. Yesterday and today Bart Penney came into School during supposed teaching time to chat with him and at four o’clock it started to snow! I’ve just had supper of beans,pork and mandarin orange jelly. Half an inch of snow has fallen with freezing rain. Snowing on the 11th June! Seeing is believing!
Difficult to Get to and Difficult to Get Away From
I’m just in the process of getting on with reading my newspapers and such literary classics as “The Listener”. I’ve got to read before nightfall. I won’t have much reading to do in School before long. Next Tuesday is the end of Term and then all I’ve have to worry about is getting out of this place. PHS is most definitely isolated. It’s difficult to get to and I’m now finding that it’s difficult to get away from. The whole of the Southern coast of Labrador is poorly serviced.
The Local Lingo
I’ve just been looking over what I wrote some months ago and the following corrections are in order: a “kettle” of fish should read a “quintal” of fish. Also another mistake caused by the local pronunciation is how wood is measured – in “cords” and not “quarts”! All the locals drop their “h’s” and add them in the funniest places. Like Mr. Hicks who calls me,”Hernie”.
“Hello Hernie,” he’ll say.
People here also pronounce “th” as “d” which means, dat dey have dis on deir minds when dey are speaking to me.Wid my children dey have considerable difficulty wid dat part of der speech.i tell dem to put der tongues between der teet to get de sound. You see when dey don’t pronounce der “th” properly dey don’t spell it properly.
It is June isn’t it?
Friday 12th…Two inches of snow fell last night. It’s been very wet underfoot today with the sun’s heat very effective on a clear day. Nothing worth mentioning happened in School today. It just passed by as usual without anything untoward happening. I suppose the fact that I only had eight children in my class is worth a mention. There’s a lag of absence from yesterday’s furnace troubles. I’m looking forward to going home but I’ll feel quite sad at having to leave the children that I teach. That’s the only “break” I feel I’ll notice come the time to leave. This should be in two weeks. After School I took some mail to the post Office after giving Stephen the names of Paul and Florrie Kippenhuck in our school who can be classed as uneducable. I haven’t been out of the house since supper time because I’ve been reading “Prester John” by John Buchan. I finished it after four hours solid reading. I read it in school but I can safely say I enjoyed it more tonight than I did when I was at school. When anything is forced, semi-forced or anywhere nearly forced on a person enjoyment is almost annihilated. That explains why I enjoyed “Prester John” so much tonight. It’s cold out now, definitely below 40degrees F and I’d say only a couple of degrees above freezing. It is June isn’t it?
Another Death by Accidental Drowning
Saturday 13th…Due to my isolated devouring of “Prester John” last night I missed quite a bit of excitement (that incidentally I didn’t mind missing.) As I came out of the house this morning to visit Sandra and Jonathan (Stephen went early this morning with El to George’s Cove) I met “Our Man in Morocco” alias Claude. He said he was out all last night with Clayt, Alt and Eric looking for bill Penney. Bill didn’t return home after going out to haul his nets. They found his boat at Saddler’s Arms. It looks like he’ drowned. The flag over at our School is flying at half – mast anyway. Bill Penney had eight young children. Only the other week I had a long talk with him on the road near the bridge crossing Humbie’s brook. A good many people in here were related to him. His wife Eva is Rita’s sister. It’s quite tragic what happened but what would you expect when he can’t swim! The men folk, fishermen or not, all go Willy – nilly into boats in the knowledge that they can’t swim. I suppose they must just hope that they can grasp hold of something if they go overboard.
I have had supper after spending most of the day at the Cook’s residence. Stephen came back early in the afternoon from George’s cove. Apparently Pete has hurt his back through lifting an oil drum with Bart. Therefore he hasn’t had School all week! I walked to Edgar’s with Stephen and Sandra who was carrying Gillian. Jonathan was running merrily long by the wayside. The five of us passed Rita, Betty and Kimberley who had just returned from visiting Eva Penney.
I nearly forgot to mention that the mission plane called this morning bringing Bart’s wife, Wally, back. She is Bill Penney’s sister. She was very upset by the whole affair. Mind you it’s still not certain that Bill Penney has drowned. At the moment they are trawling for the body in Saddler’s Arm. Apparently the death I being blamed on the “hard ‘ole boat” he built. He built a “coffin for himself” like he said. As I write this Scott has just come in and is chatting with Uncle Jack about the tragedy. The Mounties have been contacted by Claude but they are unable to get in because “the weather is down” in Goose Bay. The body should be found before they come in with their equipment. Claude thought they would bring in skin divers.
It really puts life in perspective out here when I think about what would have happened by now in England over this accident. All the Services would have been alerted and gone into action looking for the missing person. The men here have gone out to jig and trawl for hi, I was already to go out but I just missed the boat because I stopped to put a sandwich in my pocket. That was just before dinner. I had my parka, over – trousers and boots on because I thought I could help them. I would have been able to as well according to Ron Notley who had said that,
“Anybody could go who wanted to.”
In all truthfulness I’m glad I accidentally missed the boat. There is still a chance that Bill is alive because I think it’s just possible that he might have tried to walk. He might actually be trying to walk somewhere right now. I say this because all the search operations are automatically assuming he has drowned. But it doesn’t look like he is alive because it’s now 11.50 p.m. I’ve just returned from Stephen and Sandra’s where I’ve been since about 8.00 p.m. where we mainly talked about conscientious teaching. I returned from there after lunching on “hot dogs”.
The Impact of the Tragedy
On the way back to the house I passed Fred Penney who was mooching along the road. As is topped to have a chat with him I could see that the poor man was crying. I felt that he should best be left alone because Bill Penney must have been a very close relative o his. I came on to the house where Betty and Jean are in residence. Scott and Rita had gone out somewhere. I don’t suppose Scott is drinking because Rita is with him but I know this place is going to be full of drunkards tonight. All the boats are back. Nobody has found the body.
Self-Improvement through Work, the Mountie’s in and his Plane Took - Off
Sunday 14th…As I write this it’s nearly dinner time and I’ve spent the morning reading my newspapers that are pile on my bed. Scott is going back outside today with Albert. Now that he’s working Scott seems a much pleasanter fellow. I suppose it’s enough to give any body an ugly character when he can’t or won’t bother getting any work. Mind you, I’m not defending Scott’s character because I don’t think much of the bloke after spending nearly a year under the same roof as him. By the time I was up this morning the Mountie had already arranged a party of men to go out with him to search for the body. The plane that brought him in has returned to Goose Bay. It was a great sight watching the E.P.A. plane take – off. Its engine could be clearly heard over Hope Simpson as the plane jockeyed into its take-off path. The water churned white beneath and behind its floats as it powered itself along the water and into the air. It passed over the houses at a height of about 200 feet heading towards Mary’s Harbour. It will leave from there to arrive in Goose Bay by dinner time I expect. Seeing that plane has reminded me of that fabulous ride I had to Mary’s Harbour via Rexon’s Cove and Charlotteown. It seems years ago that happened.
The Body Still Isn’t Found
I can safely say that this year gone by has matured me considerably. It’s probably true to say that I’ve had five years of growing – up back home crushed into this past one. It’s now bedtime and it’s raining. I’ve been up to Edgar’s and Stephen’s and the body has not yet been found. There won’t be any School tomorrow for us said Claude who is Director of Operations despite the fact that Constable McPhee is here from Goose Bay. The body is difficult to find and catch using jiggers partly because he was wearing nylon clothes. Apparently the “Nonia” will be here with the “Strathcona” shortly. The later is the I.G.A. Hospital Ship obtained by Dr. William Grenfell when he was on the Labrador. Charlie Ward told me that the “Strathcona” will be in. He has just returned from Mary’s Harbour on the U.K.K. plane that called today. He’s been told he can go fishing this summer but between October to Christmas he has to go to St. Anthony for an operation on his gall – stones. He is staying at Uncle Jack’s for the night after deciding not to go out with Scott and Albert because of the bad weather. I expect he will go out in the next day or so. Otherwise it’s a two hour ride out to Mary’s Harbour even by speedboat. It’s a four hour ride by motor boat. I can guarantee you that it’s not very warm either in an open motorboat. Well Ern, not much longer to go now before you’re free. This place can be compared to an Open Prison because it’s so difficult to get away from due to poor services.
Monday 15th…l was awakened by the alarm this morning at 8.45a.m. with the knowledge that the “Nonia” was in. I heard it “blow” in my sleep! I was down at School until 11.15 a.m. tidying up some stock and staff rooms ready for next year’s teachers. Poor little mortal creatures. Little do they know what’s waiting for them: parental ignorance, poor attendance, rough discipline etc. I’d sent the Pauls, Harold Russell and Blenda home after instructions from Claude not to hold any School. He’s been gone all day because he thought, like Ed said, “They can’t do without me.”
I collected my mail before dinner but I still haven’t received my passport which is a blasted nuisance. Had dinner of bottled seal, turnip and potatoes. Afterwards I started cleaving wood only to have the afternoon’s work interrupted by Clive who came in with Jim Russell. He was in to sort out his passport and other return business. He plans to leave on the “Bonavista” which should be in on Saturday. I cleaved wood up to supper time and then had a chat with Ed in the School. Called at Eldrid’s with Clive’s telegram and then went up to Stephen and Sandra’s. From there I returned home. In the house tonight has been Gil Burden, Royd Kippenhuck, Scott, Fred Hiscock, Jean, Rita, Claude and myself. The body still hasn’t been found and we were all speculating about what’s happened to Bill. Whilst I was down at El’s I learnt that the new radios should be in tonight or tomorrow morning. The “Bell” boat is also in with its workmen. It shouldn’t be much longer before a decent phone system is installed. I have to phone Gander to find out if my passport has been posted as yet. That will determine whether I leave here on the first or the second trip of the “Springdale”. The first I hope!
16th…I opened School this morning whilst my Principal went out searching for the body which still hasn’t been turned up. It will float up before too long. After nine days or so I’ve heard. Anyways, more of that later. I only had the Pauls and the Kippenhucks in that’s all. Altogether we tidied up the School. A good bit of work was involved. Hauling “machines” off the wall and sorting out the desks including all the pieces of paper that accumulated inside. In the afternoon I showed my nicely diminutive class the game “Simon Says”. I left the School just before six o’clock this evening after partly completing the “Summary of the Year’s Attendance”. After supper I started cleaving wood and just as I was sharpening the axe Sandra Burden came up the steps into the house. I said,
“Hello Sandra, if you’re looking for Rita she’s up the other house.”
She smiled and went on up to Uncle Jack’s. I was curious to a mediocre extent when Jean, Betty and Sandra traipsed into this house. I thought,
“Oh, a change of gossip centre!”
When Rita and Jean went off with Sandra I imagined they were going to see their sister Eva. By now the searchers had returned still with no luck. By about 9.30 p.m., no it was closer to 10.00 p.m. they returned. I’d finished the whole wood pile and I’ve said what I said I would do: cleave all the wood that Scott had sawn up. I feel pretty please (and tired (with myself tonight. Oh well, no School tomorrow. No big rush about anything. I’ll go down to School tomorrow morning, finish my work and then try to phone Gander regarding my passport. I also plan to go for my little holiday to William’s Harbour and George’s cove tomorrow.
Further Speculation about What Really Happened
Claude and Royd were here for a short while this evening speculating about what’s happened to Bill. He was wearing a nylon suit which is difficult to hook. All different techniques are being used in an effort to find the body. Trawling, dragging, jigging, trawl hooks on bits of piping and the use of “leaded” rope, with hooks attached I presume.
Superstitious Talk
A lot of old superstitious old talk comes out now. From Gil last night, “I feel that Death was driving him on.” “He had to go because we’ve all got to go.” Everything that Bill said or did before he went missing has been minutely chronicled, ruminated around and gossiped about. He apparently had the key of Edgar’s truck on him because he was using it to haul pulp wood down to the wharf for him. Edgar is the local contractor.
Everybody throughout this settlement is talking about the supposed drowning. Oh, by the way, they did search the land around where the boat was found. That boat could have drifted a considerable distance because I’ve heard and this is only heard mind you that he had to start the engine in gear. That meant he may have toppled over the back as the boat went on. In that case then why is the gun also missing? Surely he wouldn’t have started the engine with a gun in his hand?
17th…I was over at the School until dinner time this morning finishing register work. I had Pete’s as well as mine to finish. I have taught exactly the right number of day.187.Pete taught 180 days. After dinner the searchers returned after finding the body in 10 feet of water in Saddler’s arm. They hooked it with trawl hooks that were fastened to a chain. The body which looked white when pulled from the water was put in the small shed on the wharf. Whilst the body was in its “morgue.” I was trying to phone Gander on the Island to find out if my passport will be on the next call of the “Springdale”. I didn’t make the call just then because the Mountie was putting a call through about the body being found. I was hoping to go to William’s Harbour and George’s Cove with Wallace Ward in the knowledge that my passport had been posted to me. Anyway, no luck so far. I picked up my towel, swimming trunks, Pete’s “Trollop” and my torch and set off to the wharf to find Wallace and secure my passage outside. Half – way towards the wharf I saw a motor boat with two fellahs in it. They were coming from the wharf and heading towards the Plant. I thought that might be Wallace. Sure enough it was. When I got to the wharf I met Eric and Aubrie who said that I would find Wallace at Rol Notley’s! That’s right at the other end of the settlement. I set off and trudged to that place. I reached there after 20 minutes. Wallace and Ron were there and I got fixed up to go out at five o’clock. They were eating a dinner of greased potatoes and trout served by Minnie and Rol’s wife. Pop music was blaring from the radio in the corner on its shelf. The girls were wiping off the seats. Ron was just peeling burnt newspaper off the fish he had presumable cooked it in. The way the food was cooked reminded me of my camping days. I came away leaving my towel etc. in the porch to collect when I came back. I set off to make that phone call.
The Body Was “Turning”
I called in at Wilfred Burden’s house and phoned down to El’s only to be told the phones weren’t working. As I was walking down from the Plant I met Sandra Cook who was going to Ursie’s. She told me the “Strathcona” would be in by four o’clock. Mr. Ellis, the Doctor on board had to certify the death of Bill Penney who was still lying in the shed on the wharf. It was very hot yesterday over 80 degrees F for most of the day. The blisteringly hot weather was “turning the body”.
Route Planning Without Really Knowing Where I was Going!
When I reached El’s he made that phone call, got through to be told that my passport had been posted on June 8th. I decided it would be too risky to go to the “outside” so I gave Aubrey and Harold Russell some things to give to Clive and Uncle Bob. I was afraid in case I wouldn’t be able to get back in here to meet the “Springdale” that should be here by the weekend with my passport. I plan to leave on the “Springdale” because that boat connects nicely with the wood ship that starts its three day loading on June 23rd. I’m going to have to see if the “Springdale” will stop at Brig Bay which makes it a bit easier for me to get across The Great Northern peninsula to Main Brook. If she won’t stop there I’ll have to disembark at Flower’s Cove and make my way from there.
Deep Grief
After deciding to stay in here to wait for the “Springdale” I went up to Ron’s to collect my togs. I collected my gear dropped it off in the house and went back to the wharf to see the “Strathcona”. On my way over to Ron’s I had opened the School for Harold Russell (a tall lad) to get his Maths set because the first Public Examination for Grades 9 – 11 start tomorrow. I returned from the “Strathcona” in Pastor Churchill’s car with the Doctor, Nurse and Nurse’s Assistant. We went to Bill Penney’s house following a truck - load of men who were taking Bill in a casket to his house. With the coffin laid out in the house, closed because the body had started to decay, I watched from the sidelines as Marjorie Penney, Vic’s divorced wife living with George Rowe threw herself across the coffin crying bitterly. The house was packed out with relatives and children. I came away to get my supper which I have roundabout 6.00 p.m. every evening. I left having heard that the funeral was going to be tonight. I didn’t go to the morbid affair but went down to the water’s edge and read “Martyrdom of Man”. I then went to Edgar’s and chatted for a while. After that I went to the “Strathcona” and collected “Gravol” sea – sickness tablets for 75c. It was midnight before I returned with El and Nurse Harris in El’s car. Baxter was in the house when I got back. He came back with Ben Rowe on his long liner which is moored at the wharf. It’s a grand -looking boat.
Getting Ready to Leave
18th…I was packing all morning. The weather has been very, very hot. Over 80 degrees F. It’s a real drain on my energy just to walk down to El’s. I left a forwarding address with him in case any mail still comes to PHS. After dinner I heard that the “Springdale” would be in at 10.00 p.m. Pastor Churchill phoned Uncle Jack’s to let Ed and I know. More packing was the result although I still didn’t know for sure whether I would go out because it all depended whether or not my passport was on board. After I finished my supper I went to Stephen and Sandra’s, sat down and as I was eating some strawberries (tinned of course) and cream I saw the “Springdale” come up The Bay. Great excitement! I got a lift down to the wharf with Carl Penney in his car. Dumped all my bags near the boat leaving John Paul and Edgar Kippenhuck to keep an eye on them. I then went up to the Post Office with El, Ed and Stephen.
My Passport’s In and I’m Off!
My passport was there with Clive’s! I was off. Ed and I booked a cabin on deck for $16.85 after the mad rush. We were told the boat was going out again in an hour and a half. The time was now 9.00 p.m. After getting settled in on board ship we then felt a huge anti-climax because the boat wasn’t leaving until 4.00 a.m.!
Goodbye Port Hope Simpson
Friday 19thJune. At 4.30a.m. I said goodbye to PHS as the boat pulled out. (Incidentally that good bye was said from the top bunk of our two berth cabin.) I didn’t get to sleep for hours last night because it was so hot. As I write this we are just dropping anchor at Battle Harbour. We have called at Fox Harbour and Mary’s Harbour so far. At Mary’s Harbour Henry Ackerman (Gord Ackerman’s son) ran me up to the store to change my $176.89 cheque. As we were going to the store in the truck the “Strathcona” with Sue and Margaret on board came in. Mrs. Ackerman changed my cheque for me and I came back on board after saying farewell to the crowd on the wharf, including Rev Lewis and Mr. Coish.
From Mary’s Harbour we went to Cape St. Charles where Frank Pye told me to write to him. There wasn’t any sign of Chris. On to Belle Isle and then Henley Harbour where Tim came on board. We leave Henley Harbour tomorrow morning heading south. Most of the evening Ed and myself have been talking with two German speaking Swiss ladies. Telling them about life in Labrador. Forewarning of things to come!
It’s great to be going home. I’ve looked forward to it.
Food a Wonderful Luxury
Saturday 20th…From Henley Harbour we went to Red Bay, L’Anse au Loup and finally Blanc Sablon where we have moored for the night. I should get to Black Duck Cove tomorrow morning if all goes well and we get across the Strait of Belle Isle. From Black Duck Cove (my actual disembarkation point it St. Barbe) I will leave to get to Main Brook by hook or by crook! Ed and I have only been off the boat today at L’Anse au Loup and here in Blanc Sablon. The general care of the settlement is infinitely better than Port Hope. We had fresh tomatoes in L’Anse au Loup. Food is a wonderful luxury for me now. I really appreciate the basic essentials needed for life now. For this morning’s breakfast I had: grapefruit juice, bacon and eggs, toast, marmalade and coffee. For dinner: curry and rice followed by fruit cocktail. For lunch: ham sandwiches, biscuits and tea. Verdict – superb!
A Real Bath at Last!
Sunday 21st…From Blanc Sablon the boat went to Sandy Cove, Flower’s Cove and St. Barbe where I disembarked. Driven by Colin Doyle I came to Brig Bay where I got fixed – up to leave on the “Coke” truck leaving outside the “Sea Breeze” restaurant at 7.00 a.m. tomorrow morning. I’m spending a free night at Mr. And Mrs. Paine’s boarding house. I have just had a superb bath in a bath with running hot and cold water illuminated by an electric light. Life on the Labrador has made me appreciate the essentials of life. This place is clean and well – looked after. The people have piped running water to their homes by working together. PHS please note! I should get to Main Brook tomorrow to connect with the wood ship that should be in
this week.
Off Again and My Luck’s in!
I was awake by 5.30 a.m. 22nd and had a bacon and egg breakfast cooked for me by Mr. Paine. He was a “Bowaters” foreman in Hope Simpson. At 7.05 a.m. I left Brig Bay in the “Coke” truck heading for Roddickton. Roddickton is out of the way from Main Brook but I decided to try and get a lift on to Main Brook from the fork in the road or if a lift wasn’t handy I would go into Roddickton rather than be stranded a good few miles from Main Brook. At 7.30 a.m. the driver realized that he had left his “Sales List” behind. We turned round and went all the way back to collect it. It was thus 8.05 a.m. when we finally left Brig Bay this morning. Oh what a life. We went on followed by a truck with five men on board. One in the back and four in the front. Where the road branches going to Main Brook and Roddickton the driver of my transport, Gordon Hoddinott, stopped the truck behind to see if it was going to Main Brook. My luck was in! It was going to Burnt Point which is a few miles from the settlement of Main Brook. They were heading there to “sign on” for the loading of the export pulpwood bound for England. I climbed in and arrived in Burnt Point by 10.00a.m.
Fantastic “Barker and Slasher” Operations
I have just had dinner here in the “Bowaters” cookhouse after going down to the water to see the “Barker and Slasher” in operation. It was fantastic. This place is very busy preparing for the wood ship that will be here tomorrow morning. I have to see the Captain at that time. If everything goes as smoothly as it’s gone so far I won’t have any trouble getting back.
I am now writing this at the home of Mr. And Mrs. Dawe and Mrs. Dawe’s mother. The people here are wonderful friendly. Mr. Aubrey Tulk, the “Bowaters” man left me alone in his office. I could have been an industrial spy for all he knew but it didn’t seem to bother him in the slightest leaving me alone. Now I have been allowed to spend the night with another Newfoundland family. I would just like to elucidate on what I have seen at Burnt Point: When I came into this small settlement I was dropped off at the “Bowater’s” Office after I had passed eight family dwellings. The other five houses are Company houses owned by Bowaters. From the office I got fixed-up with a place to stay overnight. I then went to have a look at the floating-crane and “Drum Barker” moored nearby. The floating-crane is used to grab the peeled pulpwood logs from the water and deposit them in the hold of the wood ship where they are stacked by men armed with pulp hooks. The logs are floating at the moment in a small inlet on one side of the peninsula of land on which Burnt point is sited. They are enclosed by a boom of logs chained together. I went to take some photographs of the operation at waterside and it was very exciting. On the land sloping steeply down to the water’s edge was some machinery. At the top of the slope a crane was feeding sticks onto a conveyor belt. These long logs then had their bark stripped, ground and torn away by a series of rotating spiked drums. Continuing horizontally along the conveyor belt the peeled logs next came to the Slasher. This was a machine that was exactly like a gigantic bacon slicer except that it was two rotating saws that cut the logs into the right size. The logs, now high above the water’s edge, were taken ten yards up a slight incline of the machine from where they fell into the water. One of the workmen took me along a gantry to within a hands- reach of the Slasher. It was very, very exciting and I am sure I have got some great pictures. Tomorrow the boom of logs will be towed out to surround the wood ship from where the floating – crane will do her work. The map below shows the situation of Main Brook, three miles from where I am writing this at Burnt Point.
When I had finished my tour of the wood operations I went back to the cook house for a wholesome salt beef meal. After dinner I went to Mr. And Mrs. Dawe’s home where I have been ever since. After supper I went over to Main Brook with them in the car and paid a visit to a family and friends who were playing cards (guess what game?) One was a cousin of Jim, Dick and Cliff Rumbolt and was well acquainted with Nurse Ruth May. Her name was Mrs. Benton. I must remember to visit Nurse May back in Exmouth at her home off Cyprus Road somewhere. I entertained all of them by talking about PHS and England. Then I returned to my home for the night. Had a lunch and then showed Mr. Dawe photographs of PHS. He also spent a summer there and like everybody I have met didn’t think highly of the place. People here are very, very friendly and I’m enjoying it. I have to hope and hope and hope that the Captain of the wood ship will take me along.
First – Hand History about Sir Dr. Wilfred Grenfell, Labrador Explorer
Before I forget, Mr. Dawe’s mother showed me a signed photograph (dated April 21st, 1908) of Sir Wilfred Grenfell holding up two dog skins. Her husband and Mrs. Dawe’s father and grandfather rescued Dr. Grenfell when he was stranded on a pan of ice in Hare Bay after he had been on it on his first solo dog - team ride. He was making for Roddickton to nurse a sick boy. Whilst adrift he killed two of his dogs and used their skins to keep warm, as well as using his other dogs to give him added heat. He went in the water but managed to get out by using one of his dogs to haul himself up back onto the drifting ice. Mr. Dawe’s mother is 81 years of age and she can remember Dr. Grenfell very well.
“He was just like any common man,” she said. “He was very friendly.”
She was very interested to hear how Mum had attended a talk by Dr. Grenfell and how she had a signed photograph but had unfortunately mislaid it. The people here seem amazed about my 18 years of age and having wintered in PHS.
N.B. A Bishop slept in my bed last night and other teachers who have boarded here paid $25 per month.
Some things I really appreciate:I have not had breakfast yet (23rd) and I would just like to list all the things that I really appreciate having left my boarding house in PHS:
• Electric lights
• Running hot and cold water
• Washing sinks
• Baths
• Indoor toilets
• A good variety of food
• Handles on doors
• Wallpapered rooms
• Well looked after homes
• Carpets on the floors
• Tidiness
• Cleanliness and
• The friendliness and hospitality which I have been shown in helping me to get here.
After breakfast I went for a walk paying a visit to the wood - loading operation. It was fantastic and very exciting watching the loading, barking and cutting of sticks.
The Wood – Ship Is In!
I heard that the wood - ship would be in by 12.00 mid – day because she was in ice just outside Hare Bay. She indeed came in at that time and it she was very welcome to me. After dinner I went with Mr. Dawe in his car down to the area adjacent to the “Bowaters” Office. He stopped the car just passed a taxi containing the Customs Official. After speaking to that man I went out to the “Frans Gorthon” with him, two wood scalers and some crew. We went into the Captain’s cabin and there, over some drinks, I made my wish known.
The Captain Agrees Provided…
The Captain agreed provided he obtained confirmation from the “Gorthon” Company who will be contacted in Corner Brook
tomorrow morning. Apparently that’s just a routine exercise so, as they say in space,” All systems go!”
The wood – ship is expected to leave Thursday night or Friday morning and after this confirmation comes through, which it better had, I’ll move my bags and person on board. I am staying the night at Mr. and Mrs. Dawe’s. After I had permission to go back on board to see the loading in operation I came back to the house. As I was leaving here to go over to the captain and Clem Richards, the wood – scaler, were passing in the car to go fishing. They stopped beside me and asked me if I wanted to go as well. When I said, “Yes” I got in and we all went fishing, returning by 9.00 p.m. The two of them caught five trout between them whilst I caught none! We saw a beaver and a family of muskrats in the water. When I returned to the house Mrs. Dawe’s lady friends were in so I told them about England and PHS. After they had left Mr. Dawe and I had a lunch and then retired to bed. I’d had supper at 9.30 p.m.!
So Near Yet So Far…
24th…I went to the Office this morning and when the Captain arrived with Clem Richards we talked about my passage over. The Captain is willing to take me along but he wants the O.K. from “Gorthon” in Sweden. So…...
Clem Richards phoned Mr. English asking him to send a telex through to Sweden to find out if the Captain can take me and for how much? The answer should be through today and I’ll know for sure this afternoon whether or not I can go. So near yet so far. It would have been much simpler if I had contacted “Gorthon” in Helsingborg myself but I didn’t know I needed to do so. The weather is sunny outside for the first time since I have left Hope Simpson and I just hope that it’s a good omen. Since I have come away from The Labrador I am seeing how complicated people are. One has to watch for intonations of speech and other such things to fully comprehend a situation. This I felt particularly in the Captain’s cabin. It was a worthwhile exercise comparing it in my mind’s eye with one of the rooms in any house in PHS. I’ve just had a great feed of lobster and trout for dinner that was very nice.
No Luck yet…
After dinner I went to the Office to find out if there was any confirmation but no luck so far…Off I went just walking about the place and chatting with various people. In essence that’s what I’ve been doing all day and the time is now 5.50 p.m. after a supper of cuckoos, hamburger meat and salad. Cockles have the same sort of shell as the whelk. Confirmation has not come through yet. Clem Richards expects Jack English to bring the telex answer with him when he comes tomorrow morning. So I have another night at Mr. and Mrs. Dawe’s house. They are very, very pleasant people. After supper I went onto the boat and had a look round at the Captain’s invitation. He had been trouting and returned at 10.30 p.m. with 25. Woodrow Hunt, Wilfred Forsey, the Captain and I spent an enjoyable evening aboard chatting and I showed them my snaps.
Fingers Crossed
I will have a fantastic ride over in the Owner’s Cabin so I’ve just got to hope and hope and hope. Only tomorrow, the last day, will tell.
Thursday 25th…I was awake at 6.00 a.m. this morning but went back to sleep. By 10.30 a.m. I had finished breakfast and was on my way to the “Bowater’s” Office to find out if there was any news. I didn’t really expect to hear anything because it is a seven hour run by car which meant that Mr. English wouldn’t arrive until the afternoon. I thought something might have turned up on this sunny day.
Maybe News I Thought…
When I was about 200 yards from the Office I saw a “Bowaters” plane tied- up to the small wharf below the drum barker’s wharf. Maybe news I thought as I entered the office? I went in through the door at the left hand –side of the porch and spoke with Mr.Rickitts and Mr.Coates. Mr.English was through in Aubrey Tulk’s office.
This Was It…
Mr. Tulk then came along the passage and took me in to see Mr.English. This was it!
News of the Very Best Kind!
It was news of the very best kind. I could travel on the wood – ship for five dollars a day! From the office I went to the Machine Shop to pass on the good news to Mr.Dawe who works there as a mechanic.From there I went back to his house and told the two women the good news. They were very pleased. After dinner I returned with Mr.Dawe in his ’67 “Chev” to the Office with all my bags. Mrs. Dawe took a photograph of me entering the car with my luggage. The good people wouldn’t take anything for boarding me but Mrs. Dawe asked for photograph of the flower garden back home.
Difficulty Boarding
By this time the brisk wind had whipped up a choppy sea that made boarding quite a problem. I went out with the wood scaler, Rex by name and we went to the leeward of the “Frans Gorthon”. We were not able to affect a boarding from that direction and I spent a few minutes chatting with some Newfoundlanders aboard the “Birch Lake”. Their boat keeps the boom enclosing the pulpwood straining against the ship. The floating –crane is loading the ship at this moment. After a hazardous few minutes we got on board, my luggage included and I was shown to my cabin. It was the owner’s cabin.
The Owner’s Cabin, Like Stepping from Harlem into Buckingham Palace
I am living here for the next week in the “lap of luxury” for the cost of only $5.00 a day. By rights I should be paying $10.00 each day at least. I have my meals with the Captain whose name is Carl. He speaks very good English and is extremely pleasant. I have just finished dinner with him at 5.00 p.m. It was served by an orderly just like at a best restaurant in England. You talk about posh. What a “rise” since PHS. My cabin has its own private toilet and shower. There is an adjustable reading lamp above my wonderfully soft bed an there is a fan on the wall. I have a dressing table with a light on either side, an electric heater, two armchairs, a settee and a coffee table. The cabin measures 12 feet by 12 feet with the toilet and shower in a small compartment outside the curtain hung door of my cabin. Another door leads to the coffee and dining room. It is like stepping from Harlem into Buckingham Palace.
Life aboard Ship
Friday 26th…I had a Continental style breakfast this morning of beautiful coffee with toast and cheese. I thoroughly enjoyed it. That was 9.30 a.m. I have been reading all day with a scattered walk about the ship. At 9.55 a.m. we left Burnt Point and I waved goodbye to the shores of Newfoundland. As I write this we have done 180 miles with nearly 2000 still to go. The weather has been clear and sunny all day. It is quite magnificent been out on the Atlantic. We have just cleared all the ice after seeing many icebergs drifting lazily along on the slightly choppy sea. I hope the weather doesn’t worsen but the Captain said there is a storm chasing us at a speed of 30 knots which means it will reach us by next Tuesday because we are traveling at 131/2 knots. Let’s hope the storm misses us.
On the “Frans Gorthon” there is a crew of 28 plus myself. She is fully loaded with wet pulpwood that means this ship is good and stable in the water. She can’t be too stable for me! I would hate to waste the fabulous food I am getting. Served as well in the best restaurant style. It was a three – course meal I had for lunch. Actually I couldn’t manage the last course which was trout. Dinner is at 5.00p.m. and I will have to get re-used to missing a lunch before bedtime. I don’t need to eat a great deal because my week’s itinerary just calls for reading and lazing about the ship. As well as remembering to keep this diary up to date. I would like to mention that I have a button in my cabin which calls the orderly for my morning breakfast. I didn’t push it this morning because I didn’t like to but now that he told me to push it I will.
Saturday 27th…I have done absolutely nothing all day except read, eat and chat. It is very interesting talking to the Captain who has been trading The Atlantic Provinces shores for 10 years. He said I was gifted after I had shown him a copy I drew of the girl hanging on the wall of his room. Her look says, “Why did you make that decision Captain?”
Lazy Days…
Sunday 28th…Lazy days again. The sea is fairly spectacular but not rough. I have been reading and chatting.
Monday 29th…A repeat day of yesterday. It’s good sailing weather. Good food. A lazy life which I will be bored with before Saturday.
Tuesday 30th…Nothing doing again today except reading. The food is excellent with a three course luncheon served at mid – day. Dinner is served at 5.00 p.m. I don’t need to eat much because I am not doing a thing.
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