May

Echoes of Home
1st Friday …School went very easily today with only seven in my class, five in Pete’s and Claude’s up at Rexon’s Cove to do the burying. The day has gone very well. I’m just reading “How Green Was My valley” by Richard Llewelyn which I swapped a few days ago with Margaret Burden. It’s by far the best book I’ve read in a long time. There’s a quote I’d like to insert here which is very true and a forewarning of increased maturity in myself,
“As you grow older, so things will come plainer and your brain stronger to meet them.”
In so many ways the story reminds me of life back in Wales and shows me graphically what it must have been like for Mum and Dad when they were first married. Not so many hardships as are portrayed in the book I don’t suppose.

Winter is closing and spring is coming at last
Last night it was still light at 10.00 p.m. which was very late I thought. Days are getting much longer now after the short ones we’ve had. Winter is closing and spring is coming at last. It’s great just to be able to walk on the bare ground again. I feel I’ve got springs in my heels after walking on snow for so long. It’s pleasantly mild today. It’s now 11.50 p.m. and I’ve just returned from Nath’s where I had a bake apple lunch. After a seal supper I went to the restaurant, played a couple of games of pool with Guy Burden and then went on to Nath’s where I spent the rest of the evening showing them my slides and later on getting tormented by Nath himself. Great laugh. They are very nice people who move out to George’s Cove this spring. Actually, John and Aunt Maude are staying in so that John can finish his exams. At the moment Jean and Betty are here playing darts whilst Rita and Scott play the part of taxidermists. They’re stuffing one of the Whitecoats that Scott obtained. He’s been working today, believe it or not, putting a floor in one of Ray’s boats with help. He’s going fishing with Ray Hiscock this summer. Its Kimie’s (Kimberley’s) birthday today and I bought a few presents for her. I have a good bit of money now and I feel guilty about having it whilst on voluntary service overseas. I’m very tired and I’m off to bed.

2nd…I got up this morning at about nine o’clock to the banging of Scott’s hammer. He is putting some planks up in his bedroom. After breakfast I took my mail down to the Post Office. On the way down I saw “Bell Telephone” men putting wires up on the light and power poles. They’re putting this new system in at last. I did nothing much in the morning and after dinner I cruised about the place coming back to cleave up a pile of wood. Scott’s been working on Ray’s boat today.

Port Hope Simpson is preparing for It’s Summer Migration
The whole settlement over the past few weeks has been preparing for the “moving out”. This is the moving out of the fisher folk to their summer fishing settlements like George’s Cove, William’s Harbour, Sandy Hook, Occasional Harbour, Square Islands, Fishing Ship’s Harbour and others. They then return at the end of the fishing season, in September, to the winter settlements like this place. In Hope Simpson I know of the following men who are building their own boats: Wince, Billy, Si, and Redge. All or nearly all of the men here are accomplished boat and house builders. They learn as they go along. I haven’t done much today except show my slides using Pete’s viewer to Dick and Gerdie, Aunt Gil Burden, Uncle Bob as well as Doug at the shop. I have nothing more to report except that Claude’s back. Also I sent back to the Nursing Station the socks that Nurse Harris has pressed upon me when I was up there. John Russell took them out for me.

Testing My Volunteer Spirit!
Sunday 3rd…Fishhooks! (Substitute swear word). Rita just said to Graham that they plan to have electricity in the house this summer. I know on whose bloody money – mine. They won’t get
anything more for my comfort than a pathetic little oil lamp. I daren’t get anything because I know they won’t like me doing that. Scott goes around talking about the wood he’s got to take and I cleave up the stuff for him. I expect he’ll see me doing the walkway for him below the house. He said today that I could do it for him. Huh! I expect I’ll do it for him. I have two exams to write this coming week. I’ve done three so far. Today I finished “How Green Was My Valley”. I think it’s one of the best books I’ve ever read. I’d just like to put these quotes down where I won’t lose them:
“Never mind how impatient the farmer is to have a field of growing corn, he must wait for the season, is it?”
“Yes, Sir, “I said.
“Yes,” he said, “or be known for witlessness. (Claude!) So with man Huw. The time of marriage is the time of the sowing.”
(Mr. Gruffyd speaking with Huw)
I’ve been reading just about all day. I borrowed “I Made My Bed in Hell” by J.Porter from Stephen. It’s a true story concerning the war in Vietnam. I’m half way through it already. Reading is a solace to my mind.
When I awoke for the third time this morning it was because Pete was standing in the doorway of my room. He just sat down and stayed for a while. He’s certainly got a nerve just coming into my room from which he nicked $40 not so long ago. I went out after supper for a walk. It’s still light out here at nine o’clock. It’s pleasantly warm and most of the road is clear of snow and ice is breaking up on the rivers. It will be ideal for trouting in a week or so. This place looks quite attractive except for the tin cans to me now. It even appears civilized.

Feeling Down in Spirit
4th…I can’t see what I’m writing. School went O.K. The weather is mild and freezing tonight. It’s been Kimberely’s birthday party tonight with a crowd of married women up here. I went out. I felt
down. Rev Lewis came in and went again. I helped Scott with his walkway and also mixed ice cream. I went up to Ron Penney’s to see Austin and his sawn foot. I called in at Rube’s and Bart’s and then came home. Felt down and it’s lasted. I’m off to bed at last. It’s gone 1.00 p.m. - had to wait for the crowd to go. They had a great time.

Final Exam Preparation
5th…I didn’t feel very pleased with life last night. I’m O.K. again now. The sun is shining and it’s been a very pleasant day. School went O.K. as usual. I’m heading the kids towards their final exams starting next Monday. It’s a bit of a bind having to write out 21 exams and then get them duplicated. I’ve written five so far and I’ve just come from the School where I was writing Grade 5 Maths out.
The mail plane came today and I got a bit. Pete got a $70 tape recorder which he said he never ordered. He’s splashing his money about like water. Maybe I’ll donate some of the stuff to the School – I expect him to.

It’s All Change with the Weather
The mail plane can still land here on skis but thin ice at Mary’s Harbour prevents it doing so out there. Before too long the planes will be landing on floats and the boats will be running again. The warm weather we’re having is causing the snow and ice to thaw. The entire road is clear of snow and there isn’t much lying around the place now. I like it better without all the snow down. Skidoos are being used much less these days because there isn’t a good enough surface for them to run on. Claude was talking about being able to buy wheels for the machine to enable them to go on land. I’m sure they’d go quite fast with wheels instead of the skis. It’s now bedtime and I’ve just returned from the “restaurant” after two games of pool with Bob, Pete and Austin.

Fixing Broken Sunglasses
After supper I went up to Rube’s to collect my sunglasses. After a brief visit I left with the now broken sunglasses in my pocket. Margaret accidentally broke them. I went down to Pete’s and managed to fix them up O.K. having tried soldering and failed. I used a piece of thin wire and it’s almost as good as new again. From Pete’s I went to the restaurant and then home. Scott’s not going out to Mary’s Harbour because Ray is having a plane – load of food flown in from Charlotteown. This settlement is very low on butter, potatoes and milk. It will be O.K. once the boats start to run.

Taking Photographs and Writing Exams
6th… It’s been a beautifully sunny day and I used it to take a lot of photos. I took some of Si’s boat being hauled out and also the “Bell Telephone” men stringing the wires. School went O.K. and I’m busy writing out exams. I’ve “bummed” some carbon paper from Stephen, actually Pete was already there. Ed said that exams were a drag. He agreed with me on the subject and he’s been teaching for ten years or so.

Ed Osmond’s Getting Married
He’s getting married on July 3rd and then off to Pastor somewhere. I borrowed, “You’re a Winner Charlie Brown” from him. It’s very funny, witty and clever. I’ve finished it. I also finished “I’ll Make My Bed in Hell” by John Porter that was also excellent.

Maybe the “S.S. Springdale” is coming?

Today I heard that the “S.S. Springdale” is leaving tomorrow and is expected here on Sunday. That’s providing it can get through the ice O.K. Ed said that there’s 20 – 30 feet of thick ice in The Straits of Belle Isle. If it hasn’t drifted further south then that will definitely stop the boat coming north to the Labrador. It will be great to hear the hooter going on the boat again.

Writing More Exams and Taking More Photographs
I came home today, wrote some exams and went out for a walk up the back road with my camera. I returned, had supper, wrote more exams then went out to Pete’s after calling in at the Pentecost School for carbons. I played “120” for the rest of the evening with Harry, Pete, Henry, Jim, Mrs. Ward and Austin. We had one game lasting about one and a half hours. I then came home, finished Charlie Brown, had beautiful beans for a lunch and now I’m off to bed.

Life Here is tied down So Much by the Weather
Thursday 17th…The day’s gone very pleasantly despite the fact that it’s been snowing. The weather’s “down” and we didn’t see a mail plane today. It’s raining now at 11.30 p.m. I’ve stayed in all evening writing exams and chatting with Scott. Rita’s gone to Sheila Burden’s “shower”. That’s Gill’s wife and the “shower” is happening up at Rube’s. I learnt a lot tonight from Scott about building one’s own house. Also I’m glad I’m staying here and not up at Ted or Ron Penney’s where Claude apparently tried to lodge me so I’ve heard. I only got taken in here because Rita and Scott had just had a “Bell Telephone” fellah in as a lodger and so “my room” was spare. It’s a drag writing out these exams but tomorrow will see me finish off my last two. I’ll have written out 22 separate exams. I’ll get them duplicated tomorrow night if all goes well by Stephen’s permission. I’m glad I didn’t go out tonight because it’s raining heavily now. The weather changes incredibly and dangerously fast out here. It’s blowing hard out now with “freezing rain” falling. It is rain that doesn’t melt the snow and ice very much. When the wind is offshore here it’s intensely cold. But it’s not cold tonight with an inshore wind bringing the rain in from off the sea. I wonder if the “Springdale” left today. If she did I bet she’s storm - bound wherever she is tonight. Before too long I won’t be able to walk across Humbie’s Brook Cove because the ice will be too thin. I might end up, up to my neck in icy water. Icy water out here means icy water with ice in it!

Exams Duplicated, Living the Life and Preparing for the Future
Saturday 9th…Last night before supper I duplicated all my exams and Pete recorded some of the singing led by Stephen. Very nice it was. I’ve just returned from Stephen’s where Ed dropped in. I went up there after Rube’s when I’d finished my supper. (Mrs. Cook is still without baby and Stephen’s dishes are piling up.) I’ve been cleaving wood all day with a break to collect my paltry mail. Only 11 bags came today. Today will be the last day the planes will land on skis. The weather is nice and mild. I don’t need my Parka outside now. I’ve stopped wearing it since the beginning of this week. Scott’s been working, yes actually working, for Raymond today and now he’s saying he hasn’t got any time to do all his work. Huh! I felt like saying you’ve had enough to do your work ten times over. But I didn’t. Fair play, he has put up a rail in front of the house and tarred the felt covering of the roof. He and Rita have gone out tonight and those “two wanton girls”, Jean and Betty are in here! I didn’t get a word of greeting from them and if they’re not prepared to speak first I can’t see why it should be up to me to make conversation with them. I don’t want to anyways.
10th…I’ve “just done” supper and a good bit has happened today. Well, I made a good bit happen today I should say. The morning after getting up at 10.00 a.m. was taken up by writing letters and sorting material concerning my Luton and Derby College courses. When I finished that after my dinner of chicken leg, peas, carrots, turnips, potato and gravy I went down to Pete’s for selotape to seal my letters. After that I decided to go out for a walk somewhere up the back road.

Gone Fishing Through the Ice
Before I left I called in at Edgar’s where Doug sold me a fishing line and hook and “I took off.” I left here at 2.45 p.m. and was up at the road branch above The Depot by 3.45 p.m. When I got there after running and walking I found that Tom, Rol and Ron Notley had already caught 21 trout, I took some photos and then dropped my pork – baited line down through he hole in the ice. Within five minutes I hauled out a nine inch rainbow trout. I was sat down on Ron’s komatik and since they were ready to leave I changed to Tom’s. Tom had the four dogs to haul him. When the sun went behind the clouds I took my trout over to the fire that Tom had lit to dry his gloves and I was all ready to cook my fish.

Trout Cooking Over an Open Fire: From Under Ice to Stomach in Under Ten Minutes
Firstly I stabbed it to death with my pocket knife and then under Tom’s “helpful” directions I split it open and cut off its head. When Tom saw me cut off the head he said,
“Don’t do that it’s the best part.”
So I said, “O.K. you can have it.”
He took it, split it abroad, pulled out the gills and cooked it very lightly on the end of a stick.
I cooked mine on a couple of sticks managing to drop it in on more than one occasion. Whilst I was in the process of making sure mine was cooked through Tom had already eaten his just about raw, remarking,
“Look the eyeball’s busted open.”
He sucked all the brains out with great relish. I thoroughly enjoyed my trout which tasted very nice. It should have, considering it had been swimming about under the ice ten minutes before! After my feed I made sure that my camera was secure on my belt and returned home in 35 minutes after having run most of the way. Food was on the table when I got home and Sandra Burden, Kimie’s girlfriend stayed to supper also. We had ice – cream which I helped to turn in the freezer.

Mail Plane Lands on Floats
11th…The first of the exams have gone by without a hitch. It’s been a lovely sunny day which has seen the mail plane land on floats for the first time because the ice is no longer good enough for it to land on skis. I got a bit of mail and some good old newspapers. After supper this evening I went to Pete’s and then on to Dick’s where I’ve just had a lovely “windjumper” (porpoise) and bake apple lunch. Gerdi has been promised an invitation to my wedding. When and if I get married. Jim Rumbolt and his wife were also there. Dick has promised me a bottle of bake apples to take home. I’ve been doing a bit of Charlie Brown (a cartoon character) drawing and Uncle Bob was very pleased with the two efforts I did for him.

The Land is Reverting Back
12th…I’m now writing before I go down to School this morning. The weather is wonderfully sunny and it makes a person glad to be alive. When I got up at eight o’clock to pay a visit to the woods, the sun had not yet melted the layer of ice over the water that froze last night. That bit of ice on the ground won’t be long going with the sun being so effective. By the window of my house it’s 80 degrees F this morning. Just where I have my breakfast. The weather is certainly more extreme here than in England. This morning I will be walking to School round on the road past the Power House because the brook is breaking through at the Cove on which I’ve been walking during the winter. The land is now reverting back to how it was when I first came here. I don’t feel like I’ve been here nearly ten months.

Reflections on the Past Year
The year has certainly gone by and my voluntary service overseas is coming to an end. I know I’ll feel sad leaving especially the people with whom I’m so friendly. Oh well, no matter. I’ll just
have to come back sometime or other. If Pete had his way he’d be staying out here for another year.

Yesterday Pete had a 4/10 shotgun that he sent for from the “S.I.R.” catalogue. He’s given it to Austin for a present. I know for certain that Charlie won’t let Austin use it. Austin’s only 11 or 12 years of age! Pete’s silly!

Sandra Cook’s had a Baby Girl!
Yesterday I also learnt that Mrs. Sandra Cook has had a little girl up at Mary’s Harbour. Stephen stopped me when I was passing his School to tell me. Around here the youngsters are told that the women get their babies at the hospital. There isn’t any sex education but the kids know plenty from what I’ve heard going around. It’s Just another Day…It’s now 10.30 p.m. and yet another day has been “punched”. Graham’s in here chatting but I’m off to bed after writing this Record. After supper I went to Uncle Bob’s and then on to Pete’s before supper I had taken my first parcel for home down to the mail. A red jumper. I wonder if we’ll see any sort of plane tomorrow. Claude is going out on Thursday to the Convention to try and tell people what it’s like up here. My exams will be finished by 4.00 p.m. Thursday and then my class will reduce in size as the people start moving out for the summer fishing season. Amongst others to move out will be George and Sade Penney.

Gossip and an Exam Blunder
At the moment in this place people are gossiping about the rows between Pastor Churchill and his wife against Sade and prior to that against Hube Burden. Everybody’s talking about it here. It’s quite nauseating how little matters escalate in significance in a small place like this. The trouble is that they haven’t anything else to talk about. Before I close this disjointed essay I’d like to note one exam blunder: Question: List three things necessary to make a good forest soil. Answer: Cabbage and potatoes! I don’t know whether to laugh or cry at times when marking these old exams! Claude’s gone to St. John’s for the Progressive Conservative Convention.

Wednesday 13th…Literature and Language exams today. All went well and Austin’s back in for them. Claude’s gone to St. John’s for the Convention for the P.C. leadership on the plane that came today. I’m Principal now – swell head! Jo Ward came in this “evening” (that is afternoon) full of praises about my teaching.“We’ll have a hard job to get a better teacher.” I won’t be able to leave this place because my head will get jammed in The Tickle!

The Bay Ice is Thawing
The weather’s been pleasantly mild all day and it’s now raining. I won’t be able to walk on the ice to School for much longer. Humbie’s Brook is breaking through. After supper I had a read of “Jaqueline Kennedy” and then went down to Pete’s after Pete came up here. I played “120” with Pete, Harry, Henry, Austin, Harrison, Mrs. Ward and Scott. We lost. They “beat”. Before I close for the night here’s another one of Kimmie’s cute expressions:
“I see a fly” in Kimmie – language is, “I see a high.”

14th…There’s been more melting today. I’ve seen my last day across the Cove ice. Those ice pans are too wobbly for my liking. School went O.K. Tonight after supper I finished my Reports and Marking. Only Austin Penney is left in now. After supper I went up to Stephen’s, saw Sandra and Gillian Dawn and also had a most welcome message. From there, after Aunt Maude and Una Green had called in I went down to Jim Rumbolt’s where I’ve been all evening showing pictures and telling stories. An enjoyable evening has been passed. Before supper I helped Scott saw up wood and there’s a whopping great pile outside ready for me to cleave up. Alt came down to lend a hand and I got my marking done. Scott thinks he’ll be out of this at the end of the week but I expect he’ll go out with Raymond and Co. next week. That means that uglies No. 1 and 2 Jean and Betty will be here more often. Claude was on the “Hot Line” today (open telephone radio line). I dont
have any more news so I’m off to bed. It’s snowing by the way! Yes again! Oh I received three newspapers on today’s mail plane and ‘Neta and Blanche brought me a bottle of bake apples as a present from Neta’s mother, Jesse.

Spectacular Movement of Bay Ice
16th…I couldn’t be bothered to write anything last night for “diahorrific” reasons. Yesterday saw The Bay Ice move out towards the sea in one great big ice sheet. It was spectacular. As I was walking down to School a big lead opened up along The Bay and the ice began to move out to block The Tickle. School is much easier without the blasted exams to worry about and this coming week will see the change in my class with most of my present pupils “moving out”. Last lesson yesterday was taken up with a successful game of rounders cum baseball. As long as I plan carefully beforehand about the exact nature of the game it will be O.K. We played on the road junction above the School. Wallace’s team won or “beat”.

“The Itinerant Artist”
Last night I went up to Jim Rumbolt’s with my Charlie Brown album of drawings. But his wife wasn’t in so she couldn’t choose one for me to “take out” for her mat.

“The Sociable Wood Cleaver with Bad Stomach Ache Who Gives Medical Advice”
I went on up to Stephen and Sandra’s. Stephen is going to St. L’anere for this year. Gillian Dawn is doing very well and is very noisy! I had a lunch of spaghetti and luncheon meat up there before making a dash for the School bog on the way home with chronic diarrhoea! This morning (Saturday) I was O.K. and all today up to six o’clock has been taken up with wood chopping baring a visit to the Post Office with a parcel from home. There I learnt that five people are in from William’s Harbour having walked a good bit of the way due to the bar of ice across Light Tickle blocking the river.
Outside the house is now a very impressive wood pile. I’m getting Scott’s summer wood cleaved up for him. He and Alt sawed it up and I sawed up some as well. It’s been sunny all day and the Strugnalls were prizing some ice off their boat so they can get out. They must be in a rush to go. After supper I went down to Pete’s, had a game of cards with him and then went to Gordon Russell’s for a chat after helping him land his boat. I also saw Christine whose collar – bone is broken and told her parents to put the arm in a sling as directed by Nurse Harris. From there I went down to Nath’s, chatted and then onto the restaurant for a couple of games of pool. After praises from Guy, who was very happy, I had a game. A fight almost occurred between Guy, Charles Russell and Ross Penney. Don Burden stopped it before it started. I came home. It was nearly mid-night anyway.

Food’s running out in PHS
Before I close for the night I’d just like to note that Jim Rumbolt told me yesterday that he had paid $1.20 for three medium – sized turnips at Bart’s, This clearly shows that food is scarce here now, until the first boat calls. This settlement or rather the stores, are very nearly completely out of potatoes, milk, butter and all eggs have definitely gone some time ago. Some of the other above foods may have been completely exhausted by now as well. I have plenty of vitamin tablets.

“Drawings, Drawings, Drawings…”
Sunday 17th…I was up at 9.30 a.m. and had breakfast of cereal (fluffs), toast and jam and coffee. I then took paper and pencil and a newspaper photograph onto the verandah and “drew out” an aeroplane for Aunt Maude because she wanted it to hook a mat. That, at a lazy pace, took all morning and I took the drawing to her house just before dinner. As I was getting ready to leave Dick called in and after a short chat I came home to my dinner, remember its Sunday, of chicken leg, peas, potatoes and gravy with tea and biscuits.

Getting Organized for Trout Fishing…
After dinner I went to Ron Notley’s to find Tom with whom I was going trouting. Ron’s house is very close to “the country” inside. Running water is in – from a hosepipe coming through the wall with a washbowl underneath. Fair play, the pipe does have a tap on the end. When I came into the four roomed residence Rol’s wife was sweeping up and there was a large heap of cigarette ends, burnt matches and dirt in the middle of the room. Tom was outside somewhere. In the woods for his ablutions I learned shortly. Minnie called him. When Rol wouldn’t let him take his dogs up “The Depot”, Tom said he wasn’t going because it was too far to walk. So I “took off” up the road.

One “Pick”, a Wellington Full of Icy Water and a Very
Wet Sock!
As I was going up “The Plant Boulevard” Charles Sampson “sang out” for me to wait because he was coming trouting with me. In the house were Charles, Alton, Aubrey, Lillian, Mrs. Sampson and Brood and Will Butt. Having made it fairly obvious I didn’t like Will’s attentions (he’s simple), I went up to Hayward and Jesse Russell’s to thank them for the bake apples. Charles and I then set off walking. After 15 minutes Wilfred and Eldrid Penney (Eldrid is Rube’s son) gave us a lift in the car for over half the distance. When Charles and I eventually reached “The Depot” with a big pile of cut pulpwood by the roadside, we saw Harold Rumbolt, Ron Notley and Sam Kippenhuck fishing through the “Bellycadder” ice (Hummocky ice along the shore). By the time we all went back in Harold’s pick – up truck he had 32 trout, Ron had 21, Sam had 26, Charles had 2 and yours truly had none! It must be noted that I did manage to get one “pick” and a wellington full of icy water after ramming my left foot through some thin ice whilst I was running towards a spot where Harold, Ron and Sam were hauling them in. My only contribution to the day’s fishing was cutting ice from around Sam’s trout that was jammed in the ice hole. Ron was getting it free for him and with my trusty I. X. L. I helped! It was the biggest trout I think I’ve ever seen, weighing over one pound. It was easily the biggest I’ve seen caught around these parts. Plenty of fish, over 20 per person will be caught tomorrow as all the river ice moves down driving the trout downstream. I returned from “The Depot” empty – handed save for one very wet sock. I left the truck at the top of “The Plant” and walked with Sam to his house where I left him to call in on Wince. I was there for just a couple of minutes and then back by 6.30 p.m. for my supper.

Fishing Boats Now Floating on the Bay
The Bay now has inshore fishing boats on its water. Practically every ounce of ice has disappeared. Si’s boat, “Sherry Lee” is out and a lot of other boats as well. This coming week will see a good few more outside I expect. Every morning as I walked to School across the Cove ice I would pass Si’s boat. The cove is now open water and the only way I could get to School would be either by boat or by swimming. Yep, it’s most definitely”round” on the road.

“What Goes Around Comes Around”
Well, I’m back in the same position as I was when I first arrived except I’m nearly a year older and I can safely say nearly a year wiser. I’m almost ready for bed having been over to Pete’s, George’s, Harold’s (Russell’s) and Uncle Bob’s.

Results Time
Monday 18th…A sleepy start to the day was over by Recess time at 11.15 a.m. The weather has been wonderfully warm and clear all day. I can now see why spring is a beautiful time of the year out here. Pete didn’t come to afternoon School because he was getting stuff ready to move out tomorrow if the weather is fine. I moved my class into Pete’s end and had 41 pupils for the afternoon. All went smoothly. This morning I told my bunch who had passed and who had failed. I’ve only kept Wallace and Paul down a Grade promoting Austin Ward, Roy Russell and James Butt despite failures.

Messing About on the River
On the way to School this morning I helped the men shove Wince’s boat along the road. She’s a beautiful inshore fishing vessel. When School finished today I “took it into my mind” to go out on a boat. 18 motor boats are moored out on The Bay now. I went out in George’s steering it for nearly all of the “randy”. It was just the day to go out in a boat. I also helped launch Harold Russell’s boat and speedboat. I’m enjoying seeing open water again. Also the flies haven’t come out yet and that’s partly why it’s so pleasant. Fishing After my baked bean super I went over to Bart’s, bought some more paper for this ‘ere nearly full book and then went on up to Stephen’s. Stephen, Jonathan (Cook) and I took two rods and went along shore towards Glad Stellers’ residence to try our luck. We were unsuccessful but still it was a pleasant walk. We navigated the path cum brook successfully and I carried Jonathan for the last bit on my shoulders. After collecting my writing paper I returned to the house.

Vacating Pete’s Lodgings
I then went to Uncle Bob’s, chatted and moved on to Pete’s where the house was almost bare. Pete and buddy Austin (who is very similar to Gerald Paul) went for a game of pool and I went on after being tormented by Jim Penney. Scott was in the restaurant and I chatted with him because Pete was busy playing.

The Warmth is Back
I returned from that place at 10.45 p.m. and I’m now sitting writing this in a warm room. What a fabulous thing it is to have warmth back. The days are very long now. It wasn’t dark until 10.00 p.m. and it will be light again at 5.00 a.m. Wonderful long days.

19th…I was over at the School this morning by 9.15 a.m. after two mad dashes to the woods. I also had beans for breakfast which
was very nice. By the time I was up this morning Scott had left for Francis Harbour Bight with a load of stuff for Raymond. He has to make three or four trips out to the summer settlement “the week.” Raymond Hiscock will be moving out at the end of the week.

Tying Final Exam Dates in With Moving Out
Stephen’s having his exams this week which means that many people have to stay in so their kids won’t miss their Finals. People here aren’t too happy about that because the ice that has now left The Bay could be very easily blown back in here trapping the fishermen who have to get everything in order before the fishing season starts in the middle of June. I’m pretty sure that Pete and “the crowd” will have gone this morning.

Increased Class Size
Pete wasn’t in Morning School and I had 39 in my class. Everything went O.K. and after Recess I had Kindergarten of Ford, Denley, Alvin, Phyllis, Susie and Henry playing with the flannel board. I organized volley ball at Recess time as well. Claude isn’t back yet although I heard he was supposed to be in Goose Bay at 10 o’clock last night. I prefer it on my own to tell the truth. With Pete’s class now in my hands I can see that he hasn’t put much effort into his teaching. He doesn’t seem interested like I told Scott last night at the restaurant.
The weather is wonderfully warm. Too warm in the house with the stove lit for cooking. I had gorgeous trout for dinner and also for lunch last night. For supper I’ve just had potatoes, gravy, minute meat balls and a bowl of custard.

I’ve caught something at last!
I fished for a little insect swimming around in my glass of water. I was successful this time. I hope it didn’t carry any typhoid or any such germ. Maybe it’s the breed that carries the dreaded diarrhoea germ I’ve most definitely got.

Afternoon School went O.K. I did Alice Rumbolt’s “Horse and Dog” for her after getting a note brought down by Jim Butt. As I was doing some work with Pete’s flannel – board (you see, I’ve moved into Pete’s classroom now) I heard a mail plane come and saw it land on floats in the open water. It brought in the delegates from the P.C. Convention. (Incidentally, Frank Moore is now head of that party opposing the Liberals who are in power.) Claude, Bart and Marjorie Penney came in and when I returned home Claude was in the house.

Three Cheers for Claude!
It looks like my Principal has for the first time in Labrador history made people aware of life in Southern Labrador. He was on the open – line twice and also in talking with “big shots” in the political world. They were all shocked in St. John’s where he had very good Press, T.V. and Radio coverage when he told them about our School. How three youngsters are trying to educate children when the parents badly need educating themselves. He shocked the Minister of Education by saying that there isn’t any paper in the School which is the absolute truth.

Good Luck!
Claude has stirred things up by exposing the slackness of Gerry Hill (Progressive Liberal) and the “Smallwood Dictatorship” (Claude Rumbolt) Claude’s been asked to run as a P.C. for Southern Labrador. He’s accepted. Well Claude, “buddy”, your in politics now right up to your neck. As it was with me coming to this place – either you swim or you drown. I expect he’ll be O.K. He has men of influence on his side. Including six ‘Feds. Oh yes, a few bags of mail came but not one single blinking thing for me – big sobs.

End of Term Arrangements
20th…It was a sleepy start to the day again for me. Claude and I had an Assembly at which “Report Cards” and “Diplomas” were given out. The rest of the morning went O.K. I’m making full use of the Flannel Board in Pete’s class. Today we had a paid – for pile of books forwarded to our School. I left School after 6.00 p.m. after sorting out things and books in Pete’s class. I had supper of seal liver and kidneys (very nice) and then took “Transfer Out” slips over to Harold and Gord Russell’s for their kids who are transferring to William’s Harbour. I returned to the School to get some of the Russell’s things for them because they are moving out tomorrow. Actually it’s raining as I write this so maybe they won’t. I went up to Stephen’s for a cruise and back down again. I’ve been cutting out felt letters for the Flannel Board and I’m now off to bed. I’ve put two “Sterotab” tablets in my tooth – glass because I didn’t fancy swilling my mouth out with water harbouring a dead fly and possibly that diahorrific germ again. The latter was alive!

Off for an Evening Walk
Thursday 21st…I didn’t wake refreshed this morning and got down to School bleary – eyed. School went O.K. After School this evening I dropped into Bart’s with Claude and paid for my ski – jacket. Nearly $11 all told. I then went and collected my mail. Dropped into Gord Russell’s to get Pete’s mail sent out and then returned to the house to read mine. After I’d answered some I went for a walk. I went from the house up to the back road across very wet ground. I stayed clear of the tracks because they’re nothing more than brooks now. I went to the wharf which is 110 yards long with 12 bollards and then returned via The Plant and Stephen’s.

Maybe Problems Getting Out?
It’s a bit cold tonight with a N.E. wind bringing cold weather in off the drift ice. George’s Cove is full of ice tonight and it’s all jammed tight outside so I’ve heard. The N.E. wind causes this jamming and packing – in of the heavy sea ice. It means that people can’t get out although Scott and three others were out this morning, very early to Francis Harbour Bight. Ray will be going out on Saturday. Before bed I tallied for Scott and Graham who were playing darts.

Caught a Real Fish at Last!
Saturday 22nd…I didn’t go to bed until Ed had left last night after playing darts with him. Nothing special happened yesterday. At 6.50 a.m. I caught a trout one foot in length and weighing about half a pound in Mill Cove. It certainly smelled when killed. I gave it to Stephen and Sandra and they had it for dinner. After returning from trouting I went over to the School for the rest of the morning putting up two alphabets in Pete’s classroom. After dinner I read a bit and then took a parcel of homeward – bound clothes to the P.O. It cost $1.60 to send. On returning home after chatting with Jim Penney, Vic, Sam, Aunt Sue and Dora I cleaved some wood after supper. I cleaved more and then walked over to Stephen’s where Ed was already in residence. I had a lunch there and after a very enjoyable chat returned home. Now I’m ready for bed having had a very long busy day.
Fear of Ice Drifting Back In and Blocking Exit to the Outside
It snowed today for the first time for quite a while. Scott’s gone out with Ray Hiscock and family and a few other families. There is a fear of ice drifting back in and blocking the exit to the outside!
Sunday 23rd…It’s been snowing all day today and that ice will definitely have drifted in with the North Easter that’s been blowing all day. Winter’s back! I had a lovely long lie – in this morning. After reading for a while I got up, had breakfast and did more reading. I think I’d go bonkers if I couldn’t get hold of books. I was reading and making notes all morning. Then I had dinner of warmed – up seal, cold peas, potatoes, turnip and gravy. It was quite O.K. After dinner I did more reading, lugged in two armfuls of wood and then had supper.

Shooting Rube’s Boat
After supper I went up to see Rube who will be going out tomorrow because the ice is”in”. I chatted with him and left after he’d told me how he’d saved most of his motor boat by shooting .303 slugs in at the waterline after his engine with seven gallons of gas in the tank had caught fire. This happened at Occasional Harbour where he fishes with Gil and Wiff (Wilfred). As I write this by diminishing daylight, Ursie, Dora, John, Bella, Rosie, Rita, Jean and Betty are in the main room of this house. Out here I find what I am now experiencing is most difficult to stand. Here I am having just come in, wanting a bit of privacy and there’s virtually a crowd in my room. I hate it. They are very nice people but there’s times when I just want “to get away.” I need to drill myself at times like this into feeling happy.

25th…I’m happy now before I start to write the day’s “happenings”! I was down to School by 9.10 a.m. on a beautifully sunny morning. Unfortunately it was blowing quite hard and so by the time I had stopped for a short chat with Rube on the road close to the School my fingers were nearly dropping off. I just went over in my ski jacket for the main windbreaker and without any mitts. That was a mistake. It was below freezing with a clear sky, very different from yesterday’s weather. I was carrying three of my seed boxes filled up with felt letters and bits of felt for the Flannel Board outfit over in the School.

Trying to Teach Very Young Children
School went fine. I make full use of the Flannel Board for the Kindergarten in the morning and for a Word and Sentence game with Grades 2,3,4,5 and 6 later in the afternoon. Kindergarten only comes for the morning and Grade 1 are dismissed at three o’clock.

The Art of Brushing Your Teeth
I was educating the children about brushing and care of teeth. (Remember there is atrocious tooth decay throughout the people here.) Austin Penney said, “It’s the first time anybody’s ever told
me that you have to brush your teeth up and down.” After afternoon School finished I went down to Sam’s to see about two boxes of books. These were school books and Clive passed a message on to me to get them on the “S.S. Springdale” when she comes. They weigh over 25 lbs. and therefore too heavy to go by air. Vic said he’d get them on-board and I’d “settle – up” later. The latest on the “S.S. Springdale” is that she was in St. Anthony at seven o’clock this morning and is heading this way. She should be here by Wednesday provided the ice doesn’t prevent her entering the Alexis Bay inlet. I think she’ll be here before the end of the week with fresh food.

What I’d give Right Now For…
I’d give anything right now to get my teeth into a juicy rump steak (beef variety), Brussels sprouts and new potatoes. Also oranges, apples will no longer be a thing of the past. “Food, lovely food….”

Got Quite Used to the Food
After I returned from “The Point” as that part of PHS is known where the Post Office and Sam’s store is located, I had a short read and then supper was dished up. Fish, potatoes and grease laden with bits of pork fat is a typical meal out here and I have got quite used to it. Its O.K. provided the salt I well – soaked out of the fish before cooking. After supper I did some more reading. I’m on “Swiss Family Robinson” by somebody or other, Sir Walter Scott I fancy.

Planning for a New Road?
I had half an hour of “kip” up to half past seven and then went to Stephen and Sandra’s to see if Stephen was going to the “Road Board “meeting held by Eldrid. I later learned from the man himself that it will be held in the next couple of weeks. When I was chatting with Stephen and Sandra, Ed dropped in with their fishing rod after being unlucky at the wharf. After Ed left I didn’t “hang about”.

Trying My Luck Again…
I came back to the house, had a loan of Rita’s fishing rod with a red and white “chummy” or “machine” on the end and “took off” down towards the wharf. I stopped at Blackwater Brook and did some fishing but with no luck. Just as I had my last cast the hook fouled up on the bottom. At that opportune moment Rube and one of his sons turned up with four trout. They were just coming back from the wharf. Rube had waders on so he unhooked the line for me.

No Qualified Medical Treatment for Dean
I asked how Dean, his youngest son was after he’d fallen on an axe this afternoon and split his nostril and lip “clean abroad”. He told me the Nurse couldn’t get a plane for him although one might come in tomorrow. The cut needs stitching.

Cheesed - Off
Anyways, I went on down to the wharf but by 9.55 p.m. I was “cheesed – off” so I returned empty – handed. I ran back and it only took me ten minutes or so to get home. It’s a mile and three – quarters to the wharf from my boarding – house. I’ve just had a wash and a lunch and I’m all set for bed. Oh, before I go, the next expected happening in my life out here will be the arrival of our duplicator on the “Springdale”. It’s always wise out in Labrador to expect the unexpected. When things happen out here they happen very fast.

Moving – out and Some Families Left Behind
Take the “moving out” for example. The following families have now gone: Wilson Russell, Wilson Green, Alec Penney, Lloyd Hicks, Billy Parr, Charlie and Harry ward, the Hiscocks, George Penney, Dick Rumbolt, Harold, Gord and Uncle Bob Russell, the Strugnalls, Jo Ward, Redge and Cliff Russell, Gord Penney, John Penney, Hayward Russell, Tom Penney, Billy Ward and George Kippenhuck.
A few more families will be moving out this week: Sam Kippenhuck, Ben Rowe, Sam and Vic Penney, Bill and Royd Kippenhuck, Graham and Clayt Kippenhuck, Charles Russell, Jim Ward, Wince Clark, Bart Penney, Rube, Gil and Wilfred Burden, Don, Guy, Saul and Sam Burden, Bill Butt, Gordon Ward, Nath Burden, Walt Kippenhuck, Jim Penney and Rob Kippenhuck.
When everybody whose going to move out has done so only 27% of PHS by families will be left. Only 22 out of 73 families will be left in here for the summer months.

Increased Classroom Efficiency!
26th…The weather was poor this morning with cloud and drizzle not dampening my good spirits. Nothing special has happened today. My class is definitely going down in size. There were only 19 today. I stayed after school with Austin and Hedley as my two main helpers sorting out library books according to their level of reading difficulty. And I sorted out the flannel Board box. The front of the classroom looks quite professional now. I find that I’m always coming up with little new ideas to increase the efficiency of teaching Grades K,1,2,3,4,5 and 6 in one room.

The New Government – Set Fish Price and Dastardly Deeds Afloat
Claude was telling me today how “The Saltfish Marketing Corporation” set $26 - $33 per quintal of dry salt fish a few days ago. Today it was announced that the fishermen on the Labrador will be getting $6 per quintal! They are still not getting their correct profit because it’s going on salaries for the bods in The Corporation! It very much looks like the Labrador population is trying to be centralized by using economic measures. That is dastardly. Joey Smallwood is Minister of Economic Affairs and also Premier of this Province.

Completely Cut – off George’s Cove
Rube and his family went out to Occasional Harbour today. They have a further hour’s steam from there to George’s Cove if they want to phone anywhere. It’s completely cut- off.

The “S.S. Springdale” Steams In to Port Hope Simpson
I heard today that the “Springdale” was due in at 8.00 p.m. Sure enough by 8.45 p.m. I saw her steaming up “The Bay”. I think I must have been the third person in PHS to see her after Vic and Sam Penney. I took Clive’s school books down, paid the Purser 70c and had them shipped O.K. to St. John’s. The “Springdale” will be here all night. Already a lot of freight has been unloaded. Including many, many cases of “India” beer. Mr. Edgar Hicks has come back on the boat. I also saw Solomon Curl (an ace accordion player in Tony Williamson’s film) and Sam Burden. I came back up walking with Ed and Stephen after going down in Edgar’s truck. Bumpy that was. It was much safer coming back “au pied”. Our duplicator is on board and I’ll see it tomorrow. Claude’s helping ship the freight with Doug, especially the beverages on board. This place is no quite busy with trucks going back and forth with the freight. It was nice to walk about the boat again and the hooter sounded great as she came steaming up The Bay after successfully navigating all the ice further out. It was miserably wet when the boat came in.

School Work and Word – of – Mouth Historical Evidence about Port Hope Simpson
27th…The weather has been miserably wet al day today. Before Recess this morning our electric duplicator came. And before the start of Morning School Claude was draining water from the oil cask outside my classroom. Those blasted furnaces are very unreliable. Nothing especial happened in School today except I had a word game of opposites my class of fourteen. Austin and James didn’t take part because they were arguing beforehand. I stayed over at School until six o’clock making out some Maths Grade 1 – 3 and Handwriting Grades 1 – 3 master copies. I then did some duplicating on our much needed acquisition. I had grapes, an apple, a carton of ice cream and two oranges to keep me going. Not all consumed I hasten to add. I bought them for $1.60 from Edgar’s at diner time. After supper of Bologna and
baked beans I drew out a caribou for Jim Rumbolt’s wife Joanah I believe and took it up. I stayed for lunch and was on the way home when I stopped to chat for half an hour or so with Bill Penney Senior near Humbie’s Brook. This man was born and bred here and he told me some very interesting details about Port Hope Simpson:
Alec Notley’s father (Alec Notley is Ron Notley’s father) was the first settler to build here. 38 years ago there were no white houses in this place. What I call “Lower Port Hope Simpson” was given the name of “Dog’s Town” by a surveyor with whom Bill was working. All the present white houses were just log shacks in the same state as Charlie Ward’s is today. Bill also told me that he helped Ron and Eldrid drive the road through this place. The present road has been here for only a few years. It’s now just a dirt road and a muddy one at that when it rains. Apparently there is a mark on one of the rocks at Light Tickle (the narrow bend of the river out of The Bay) left by somebody, probably the first man to come here a long time ago. I hope I get a chance to have a look at it maybe if I visit William’s Harbour and George’s cove before I leave.

Just Passing the Time…
Thursday 28th…Nothing of importance has happened on this wet, misty day. School went O.K. as usual and when I returned for supper at six o’clock Scott and Fred were sat in the house. They’re going out to Francis Harbour in the morning. Scott’s boozing at the restaurant and Vic’s car is full of drunkards. Don, Guy etc. At 8.00 p.m. Claude held a meeting to get things going politically. A telegram is to be sent out asking “Bell Telephone” why the new system hasn’t been put in yet. I called in at Bart’s the restaurant and Aunt Maude’s this evening. Also I went to Edgar’s where I bought some ice cream. I bought five cones and distributed them at Aunt Maude’s to their pleasure. I had a lunch of partridge – berry jam there and I’ve just come home at 1.00 a.m.

Latest Bug – Sore Throat
Oh I’ve got a wonderful sore throat! That’s the latest bug in this place and I’ve got it. Blasted painful and my voice has gone at least an octave lower.

Cheese, Egg and Chips!
Friday 29th…It was another sleepy start to the day this morning but that was soon overcome. The weather has been warm all day with a clear sky and a slight breeze. This afternoon saw a forestry plane with patients and a forestry helicopter with Mr. Lethbridge come and go. I went to Ben’s, El’s and Sam’s. I learned that Rita had gone off trouting with Becky so I had a few bake apples, a slice of bread and some cheese for supper. I went over to the School with the cheese in my pocket, did a pile of duplicating and then went to Stephen and Sandra’s for a fantastic egg and chips lunch. Elsie Butt and a girl Notley called in at the School. In my very hoarse voice I explained the machinations of the duplicator to them and then Elsie asked me or rather reminded me that I was to mark out some stuff on her mat for her. That’s another visit I have to pay to the Butt’s. My time here is certainly getting shorter and I’, now able to look back on the year. It’s been a fantastic experience with some bloody hard moments but I’m glad I came. I’m also glad I’m going back. A year is plenty long enough. I do feel that I have “done my bit” to help people who aren’t as lucky as myself.

Still Freezing and Damn “The Labrador Cold”
Saturday 30th…I didn’t wake and get up for the second time until 10.45 a.m. I first woke at six o’clock absolutely perishing. So I put on another jumper had an aspirin mouthwash and returned to bed. I’ve caught “The Labrador Cold”. After breakfast I went out and clove up some wood then had pease soup for dinner and returned to my woodpile.

Gone Fishing Again
By about 2.30 p.m. I was cheesed – off with that so I cruised up to Stephen’s and went with him and Jonathan to Mill Cove to try our luck at trouting. We were unsuccessful in the Cove so we went out on a stony bar, only just making it back ashore by beating the rising tide. Jonathan and Stephen both got their feet wet but this Welsh Mountain Goat managed O.K. I stayed on at the Cove with Stephen’s rod (he took the other one back) and after much patient casting and reeling – in I was rewarded with a five inch trout.

Drawings for Mat - Making
From Stephen’s I went up to Billy Butt’s, did drawings for them on Elsie’s “brin” that was in its frame, had supper of trout and potato there and then returned home feeling very sleepy. It’s now damp, misty, overcast and drizzling with a warm westerly wind. I’m not staying up much longer. It’s now 9.30 p.m. and I learned yesterday that the next mail will be on one of the boats which means a
Long wait. I still haven’t got my passport. Also this morning Rita told me that she caught seven trout and Becky caught 23. They were both up at “The Depot”.

Amazed!
Last night I was sat down on my bed and Rita said,
“Ernie do you want a lunch?”
Please note dear reader, that this was the first time that she has called me by my Christian name since I’ve been here! That was the latest happening in my life!

Sunday 31st…The time is now 8.25 p.m. and for once I’m writing this at a reasonable hour. Having kept this diary up to date almost without fault has got me into the habit. I think is a valuable exercise to keep one. I was awake at 9.30 a.m. after getting 11 hours sleep. I felt a bit better this morning than I’ve done on previous mornings over this past week. I hope this “cold” will clear up soon. Having breakfasted on bacon for the first time (I had eggs for the first time at the beginning of the week) I did nothing much for the morning except read “Swiss Family Robinson”. I had dinner of chicken leg etc. Oh, I did do something before dinner. I “drew out” the caribou for Aunt Maude’s mat. It looked O.K. I took it down to the house where Aunt Maude, Nath, Muriel, John, Hayward, Blend and Harold Russell were all having dinner. I didn’t stay long. Aunt Maude’s remark (worth noting) was,“Oh, he’s gone just like that.”

Darwinian Expedition
After dinner I embarked on a Darwinian Expedition collecting all the different mosses roundabouts. I was cataloguing them of a sort when Scott walked in. He came in with Ray and Fred Hiscock.
They’re “supposed” to be going back tonight. It’s snowing quite heavily now so I expect they’ll stay in for tonight. Scott passed Claude and George Rowe who were going out to William’s Harbour.

What’s going on Out There?
I think Claude’s gone out partly or wholly to find out what Pete is doing. That bloke is just having a holiday out there if reports reaching us are correct. Certainly he hasn’t got enough children to start teaching yet. His family was the first or second to leave Hope Simpson. There was no need for him to go out so early.

Let Loose…
Oh well it’s the start of a new month tomorrow. Only 17 more days to go before School closes and then I’m let loose.

Looking Forward To…
Of all the things I’ll be glad to get back to fresh milk comes very, very high up on my list. It will be possible to get fresh food when I feel like it. Fresh, clear water, a decent light – oh electricity the most sacred of discoveries.

And Looking Back…
Life out here is very pleasant. A fellah is able to go trouting when he feels like it or alternatively in the winter go hunting whenever he feels like it. The weather is invigorating. The cold is intense but as long as you’re suitably dressed it’s easily bearable. Apparently temperatures soar here in summer. Over 100 degrees F has been known here. 140 degrees F was the temperature Ed quoted to me up at The Depot. That occurred a few years ago.

On Life out Here
A general statement that rings true about the people is that men are men and women are women. I mean that in the old – fashioned lives of male and female. At the moment a good many men are probably “loaded” with Edgar’s beer. I think it’s very bad for the welfare of this place that beer is sold here. The Church seems unable to come to grips with it.
Today Kimmie went to morning Church with Glynis Burden and to Sunday school where she regularly sleeps with Sandra Burden. That is a regular occurrence in this house on a Sunday.