August
August 14th 1969
Sorry to start on a disappointing note but my “A” level results came out today. I only passed in Geography and English Lit. and failed in History. But since I fractured my skull in five places three months after starting my two-year course I mustn’t complain. I don’t think that will stop me going to Labrador. Only six days now. I think I am going to enjoy my year abroad .I completed my packing tonight on the 18th. Also had Gamma Globulin injection. Only got to fix up my journey to London. Said more goodbyes. I am feeling rather nervous – hope everything goes smoothly.
Montreal
I arrived safely in Montreal on the 21st – phew what a carry on! I am staying with a Mr. and Mrs. Franklin and everybody is very kind. All of the Voluntary Service Overseas volunteers have been invited by the City of Montreal to visit Expo with a free slap-up lunch today. We only spent one day in Montreal worst luck. Expo ’67 was a great showpiece and the free lunch was very formal. The plane for Goose Bay, Labrador leaves at 5.20a.m. Tomorrow morning- ugh!
Goose Bay
It was a very hospitable seven-day stay in Goose Bay by kind courtesy of the Perrys and the Eisons. Goose Bay from what I saw equals The American side and The Canadian side at Happy Valley.
The Boat Journey to Port Hope Simpson
The volunteers are now on our way to our allocated settlements along the Labrador coast on board the “SS Cabot Strait” with its closet cabin accommodation! The rest of the trip must be an anti-climax in the sense that facilities and hospitality can’t possibly approach our stay in Canada up to now. I must not expect too much in Port Hope Simpson.
Regarding the other volunteers: Pete Smart found out that he is to also teach near PHS, which gave me mixed feelings. Chris Humphries got off the boat at North West River. I wonder if he is really happy and contented out here? I mustn’t forget Alex’s accident when a drunken driver hit him, fractured his leg and won’t be back to work until Christmas. It is difficult to cater for those sorts of things but did he have to walk home alone? Nina, Kay, Peggy and Fiona have all been posted to Northern Labrador (too much temptation for young males!) but Jean Crichton has been posted to Cartwright with Clive, Chris, Pete, Tim and I – mismanagement on the part of V.S.O.? It’s beautiful country. I wonder what it will be like when the weather or winter breaks. I will not be bored if I find or rather make plenty to do.
This boat journey dropping off at our settlements is dragging on! However, it must cater for the fishermen. We will arrive in PHS tomorrow. I am looking forward to it. The weather has been great and we saw some icebergs not very far away. I spoke with a Newfoundlander fisherman who comes to the Labrador coast in May for the summer. He was on his way back with only 91 quintals of fish that apparently means a poor fishing season. The meals on this boat are great and I have had only very slight feelings of sea- sickness. Jean got off at Cartwright taking a letter to Mum for me.
This boat seems to be too small for the number of people on board or that what it seems to my inexperienced eye at least. I’ll be glad to be off it. My cold is definitely clearing-up now after a couple of aspirins last night. Wish it would hurry up and go.
The arrival of the boat at settlements along the coast is obviously a great occasion. The fishermen and some curious relations bring their dried salted codfish, oil drums, fishing nets and luggage out to the boat. I took some photographs of the fishermen’s gear being loaded. They try to catch their fish by using nets. These people are not so far above a subsistence level of living. I’ve made friends with the crew who are a nice enough bunch although coarse in speech. I have to listen very carefully to make out exactly what they are saying because their pronunciation of English is hard to understand. The fishermen are a tough bunch – My God they’ve got to be in this bleak landscape to survive. I watched two of them have a trial of strength in the lounge this afternoon but only arm to arm.
Arrival in Port Hope Simpson – First Impressions
I finally arrived in PHS on the 30th. It was an experience similar to alighting from a tube train in the middle of Dartmoor! After my unannounced arrival at 6.15 a.m. I met The Principal of The Anglican School where I was going to work. Pete has just left at 9.00a.m. for George’s Cove where one teacher is needed there, about twenty miles from here. I’ve been here for only three hours and this man jokes about sleeping with somebody’s girlfriend! It was true! There were two wanton girls outside my bedroom late night!
Hardly anybody here goes to work. I am staying with a Mr. and Mrs. Coish and their very young daughter Kimberley. He built the house himself. They seem to be a relatively well off family but still quite poor in material things. Sanitation and hygiene are very poor which is not helped by the fact that there is no running water. The water is an opaque brown in colour and tastes quite pleasant. The water in the streams is fit to drink, as it is – no dead sheep or cows. I bought my Parka today at $28.89 (about £11.00) – it’s fabulous. The men don’t seem to talk about anything else but women and sex. It looks like I will have to be very much on my guard against the “fair sex”!?!?!?!? In fact, I even wrote a postcard home asking for five bottles of multi-vitamins – maybe to help me desist!!! This house where I am staying is virtually one big room where everybody knows what everybody else is doing more or less.
I’ve written to Mum, V.S.O and Jane ref. Derby College. I am off to see Pete at 7.00 a.m. tomorrow.
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